Thursday, December 20, 2012

Merry Christmas!!

Dearest Friends & Family,

Merriest of Christmases and a happy, sparkling New Year to you and yours!
A crazy weekend trip from Korea & CO respectively... at Trevor & Sarah's rehearsal dinner


Standing with an enormous South Korean guard in one of the negotiating buildings at the DMZ
Bridge to nowhere....on the left side at the end is the building where they came out to check us out!
We are so excited to send greetings from Colorado together again! We started the year off separated by miles and miles (with a brief visit to celebrate Trevor's wedding to his beautiful wife Sarah in early January) until I left Korea in the rear-view in March (a month later than expected). We got a few relaxing days in Florida before driving up to the glowing, sophisticated metropolis that is Maxwell AFB in Montgomery, AL. (If you were going to drive for 10ish hours and wanted a book on tape....I'm betting your husband wouldn't pick History of Intelligence in the US...driving books are supposed to keep me awake....) How unfortunate that as taxpayers we've all put so much $ and effort into such a place that the officer corps will NEVER escape. Two long months (and lots of afternoons at the driving range) later, I was finally home in Colorado, starting my new job at the Air Force Academy.


Telluride, CO! Celebrating the end of a 15month separation!
In reality, we've had quite a few adventures this year. We were able to visit with loved ones in June when we went back East for Beach Week in Delaware with my high school friends. Then come August, we brought my parents back to Ireland where we were married for a week of traveling and culminating with a glorious Notre Dame victory over Navy in the football season opener! This trip was full or reminiscing while we enjoyed Doonbeg, visited the Church in Limerick, and got a speeding ticket in Cork! October brought us to Atlantis, Paradise Island with the annual Infinity company trip with Chris's work colleagues. Finally, we were excited to host Thanksgiving for the Crumps, welcoming Mike home for a brief visit during his 2 year stint in Suzhou China.


Three of my favorite people on a walk through one of Doonbeg's courses

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Flying, KJU, & Lunar New Year - Elvis Style

"Oh, you're in the Air Force." "yes" "So are you a fighter pilot?"
Sadly, that's a conversation I have on a regular basis when a stranger learns of my profession. Of course, fighter pilots are a historic and visible emblem of the Air Force, but with the reaction I get when I state that, in fact, I'm not a Top Gun pilot, is often semi-veiled disappointment. In some ways, those guys have the best job in the world, but I'm pretty confident that even those of us in the less-glorious fields have something to contribute. None the less, I was fortunate enough to experience some of what they do in a FAM (familiarization) flight last month. All I can say is that jets are incredible pieces of equipment and I'm left with no doubt that our pilots (and all of the support they receive is pretty damn good) are the best in the world. I had a blast and if I ever get another opportunity to fly in a jet I'll jump on it.

Recently the Hermit Kingdom underwent a transition of power when KJI died and his son KJU stepped up to rule. As of yet, not much has happened besides the least experienced 4 star general in the history of the world stepping into the roles his father held as leader of the sad, brainwashed, and impoverished little country. Considering the luxury the tiny upper-elite enjoys, I don't see them making any huge changes any time soon. Life would be unpleasant to say the least for those who would not only lose their place at the top, but also find themselves facing the ire and judgement of the civilized world. I got a chance to look into a tiny little piece of the country on a trip to the DMZ.  When Mom came out to visit, she bravely made the trek with the ITT group so I could spend the day at work. I got to see the same sites on a MUCH colder day. We drove North from Seoul, seeing the several points along the highway where preparations are in place to stop or at least, delay an invasion of North Koreans. Of course, the South Koreans are building away in the zone north of Seoul due to favorable laws and tax regions which allow them more freedom in housing and business. Once at the DMZ, we were able to see the buildings where meetings are held between North Korea and the rest of the world. South Korean guards stood at a ready position in front of the door leading to North Korea. Apparently, they're ensuring that none of the visitors try to defect to the North. The soldiers serving in this duty are selected when they report for basic training (South Korea uses conscription - all men are required to serve for at least 2 years). They are the biggest Koreans I've seen and experts in Taekwondo. Messages are often communicated to the North Koreans - there's a phone call from the South letting them know the type of information that needs to be communicated. If it's anything important they usually reject the message and personnel from the multinational command manning the border are forced to read the message over a bull horn in English and Korean. We moved on to lunch with the NNSC - let me tell you - the Swedes and the Swiss at the Neutral Nations Supervisory Council eat a whole lot better than any US personnel on PEN! We drove on and saw the "Bridge to Nowhere." We were fortunate to get off the bus and take a bunch of photos - this is uncommon so the North Korean guard on the other side actually came out of his little shack to look at us with his binoculars. It's like going to a two-sided zoo where the animals are armed, everything on the other side is interesting but it can kill you, too. We were looking at him just as much as he was looking at us! We moved on to Tunnel #3 where North Koreans unsuccessfully attempted to tunnel all the way to Seoul. They only made it about a mile, but the tunnel had pretty decent engineering. In order to pretend it was an abandoned mining tunnel, they smeared coal dust on the walls ...too bad it's pure granite with no coal to be found....sneaky North Koreans. The last stop was the customs station. All traffic to and from North Korea processes through this location, including goods, tourists, etc. Recently, a previously approved tourist was deported back to South Korea for wrapping some of his goods in newspaper. Such foreign contraband is forbidden in North Korea - good thing fish and chips isn't high on the menu! If you have any further interest in that lost piece of the world, the National Geographic documentary "Inside North Korea" by Lisa Ling is eye-opening (no pun intended).


Yesterday I ventured up to Seoul and spent a few hours wandering around the War Memorial of Korea which is a museum of not only the Korean War, but of the soldiers and war in the history of Korea. Not only was a I treated to scale replicas of turtle ships and sunlight symbolic of the birth of Korea, but I also saw a that part of the museum (not the adjacent Wedding Hall) had been turned into Dino Land with several huge blow-up bouncy slides, bins of wooden pieces that looked like big dinosaur puzzles, and other tables covered for coloring. Afterward, I wandered around Itaewon, and ended up getting a back and foot massage. After paying up front, I was shown to a small locker room where I changed into shorts and a t-shirt. I went back to a freezing room where I got a mediocre massage, great foot rub, and bonus stretching at the end. Upon leaving, I realized I had <15 minutes to make it to the 1700 bus or I could wait another hour browsing shops and meandering back....I ran and made it with 4 minutes to spare!

 Besides those exciting adventures, life has been very busy recently. I did luck out with one final trip to Hawaii, but for the most part, it's just the long work days! We did get a day off for the Lunar New Year celebration. The Catholic community celebrated with a fellowship and presentation sponsored by the Korean prayer group. They cooked a feast to serve after Mass and one of the ladies taught some of the girls a Korean dance.. Then Fr. Peter, our wonderful Vietnamese priest, told us that he would also perform for us in honor of Tet (the Vietnamese New Year). However, instead of a traditional Vietnamese song, he performed Elvis's "Falling in Love with You." He invited us all to sing along AND when we got to the second verse....he didn't know it. Apparently, the not quite right of Korea just seeps into everything and everyone!

Otherwise, I'm training for the Seoul Marathon again and getting ready to leave the ROK. (In my head I like to think of Sean Connery saying "The Rock" and then I momentarily feel cooler about being here. Those moments are fleeting, but precious none-the-the less. Today, I'm off work, thanks to Superbowl Monday. As I left the O'Club to head home, my friend remarked that while the weather is overcast, it hasn't been very smelly the past several days. Korea has this funny way of being smelly, sometimes I worry that I left the trash out until I realize that it's not just near the garbage....it's actually just Korea. as I said...fleeting, but precious. I'll finish up this post, add a few photos and work on writing some Valentine's. I've got a few more weeks left until i'm back in the States and Valentine's Day will be my 1 year anniversary here in Korea. I think it's fitting to celebrate!


Crush 'Em!



Sunday, January 1, 2012

Our Year in Review

Dearest Friends,



If you read this in email form....sorry...I copied and pasted...but I did add some photos...


As the Christmas season comes to a close, Chris and I wanted to send a quick note. It's been quite a year! Five months into our marriage, we decided that living in the same house is too easy and fun. Now, we've got a solid 15 months under our collective belt and we've in different continents for 10 of them. However, distance creates plenty of opportunities for adventure!

Chris dug into home improvement, beer making,

triathlon, and holding down the fort with the dogs. He made his first (and second) trip out to Asia! In May, he indulged by travel appetite by meeting me in Bangkok for 8 hours before wining our way on a little prop to Luang Prabang, Laos. When we landed, climbing out into a paved rectangle next to the runway, Chris remarked "I guess this is the kind of airport where you don't get lost." The rest of our visit proved to be charming and exciting. We hiked to a Hmong village, learned about several types of giant spiders up close and personally, and learned to ride an elephant! Later in the summer, Chris got to appreciate the glory of a Korean summer - hot, humid, dirty, and buggy when he came out in support of one of the main exercises, Ulchi Freedom Guardian. He got to head into work in the middle of the night, pick me up around 0430 on a "late lunch break" and get back into the thick of defeating the Chonger (Kim Jong Il) for a few more hours. We were both fortunate to leave Korea behind while we joined Chris's company, Infinity, in London for their 15th Anniversary company trip. A week of enjoying Hyde Park, Evensong at Westiminster, the Lion King, and plenty of good beer, left us wishing for more but ready to wing our way back to Colorado for a few days. We were fortunate enough to join family and friends at the Air Force Academy to bless our marriage and then for wine-tasting and dancing that evening. Alas, after playing Indiana Jones, putting our new communication skills to good use, and remembering how much fun it is to spend time in the same space, we had to say goodbye for another few months....
I left the day after our reception to land in Australia a few hours before my boss. I never knew when we volunteered for Korea that I'd get the opportunity to work for a general and see the world and the Air Force from an entirely new perspective. I haven't been overly enamored with Korea - mostly I think I got myself excited for an experience like my study abroad in China - but the weather and the food just don't entice me. Fortunately, the job is great and makes the days rush by! I've gotten to hike Flat Top in Alaska, paddle board in Hawaii, wine taste in Australia's Hunter Valley, eat sushi Tokyo and walk on the beach in Okinawa. I'm still an unbelievably bad golfer and get lost in the Pentagon, but I've learned about leadership from the best in the business.

We aren't anxious for any more remote tours or time apart, but are glad we volunteered for my tour in Korea. This year has brought so many blessings both tangible and unseen. Best of all, I'll be returning stateside in March, spending two months in Alabama for SOS and then coming home to Colorado to work at the Air Force Academy and best of all, settle back into our home with Chris and the dogs! We look forward to opening our home, game closet, burgeoning cellar & homebrew, and arms to any and all of you any time you're passing through or stopping by for a longer trip.

May God Bless and keep you and yours this Christmas and always. Please know you're in our prayers!

Namaste,
Chris & Caitlin


Beer Lao!
Dinner in Luang Prabang
These goats just tickled me hanging out on the bench!
Learning to be mahouts (elephant drivers)
The Jeep is "at home" in Moab
walking to the Grotto
Celebrating a dear friend's wedding "at home." (Notre Dame)

F-16 Ride



PS We owe a few more pictures here.....but I have to get them from Chris first!!!